How to sew flared skirts: practical advice
It's amazing how clothes can change a woman's silhouette. This article will discuss how to sew a flared skirt with a high waist, which simply miraculously gives slimness and brings notes of romantic mood to the image.
So, where to start sewing? The whole process can be divided into several stages: the choice of fabric, the construction of the pattern, the modeling on the pattern, cutting and assembly of the product. Let us dwell on each of them to learn how to sew flared skirts. After understanding the principle of manufacturing, you can create for yourself a chic wardrobe, without making fantastic efforts for this and without incurring special financial expenses.
Stage one: the choice of materials
Flared skirts look great if they use flying and flowing fabrics to make them. And it can be as the thinnest cambric, silk or viscose staple for the summer version, and soft costume canvases for the colder season.Depending on the type of figure, you can adjust the visual perception of the silhouette. For example, bright divorces with abstractions or large flowers will look good on thin ones, but for girls of more magnificent forms it is better to stick to monotonous scales or fabrics with a small strip and a barely noticeable cell.
Also for the skirt, in addition to the material, you will need accessories, in particular, secret zipper, hooks and buttons or buttons. The clasp can be fully framed with buttons. But, as practice shows, with lightning is much more convenient. And the hidden fastener looks neater, except for the case when the zipper becomes a decorative element and is specially painted in golden color or carries rhinestones.
Stage Two: Build a Template
Pattern flared skirt is built very easily. No complicated calculations are needed here, and for the manufacture of the template you need to take only three measurements: waist and hip volumes and the length of the finished product. It is best to use either A4 paper glued together, or a simple medium density construction film to make the pattern.The last option will be more durable. Therefore, if it is planned to sew more than one skirt on such a template, then it is better to make a blank from the film, especially since this material is worth a penny.
So, all flared skirts are built on the basis of a pattern of a similar piece of clothing of direct cut. To create this pattern on paper or film, draw a vertical line (meaning the middle of the canvas skirt), equal to the size from the waist to the bottom of the product. After mark the line of the hips, which, as a rule, is 15-20 cm below the waist. Then, a perpendicular to the vertical is drawn from this mark and ¼ measures of the volume of the hips are noted. Next, go to the waist and calculate how much it is, to determine the number of tucks. On the sides, from the hips to the waist, the sheet is narrowed only by 2–3 cm. The remaining difference is divided into 4 or 6 tufts, which are closed tucks of fabric.
Features distribution tucks
The main feature of individual tailoring is that the product is tailored to the peculiarities of the body structure, thanks to which it fits perfectly on the figure, unlike factory items. That is why it is necessary to properly approach the issue of landing.To do this, on the skirt you need to properly distribute tucks. For example, if a girl has a bulging belly, then all tucks are transferred to her back. Thus, this lack of shape will not be emphasized and the silhouette will look more proportional.
Flared skirts, cut along a scythe, are completely built without darts. On such products, it is enough to mow the side seams from the hips to the waist.
Stage Three: Simulation
After constructing a straight skirt pattern, described above, you can proceed to modeling, extending the pattern along the side seams from waist to bottom. There are no restrictions here. It can be either a simple trapeze, or a flared skirt. The only thing you need to know is that when the side seam is more than 45% flared, tuck along the waistline will be out of place. This element of the cut is necessary only for skirts with a slight expansion to the bottom, such as "bell", "trapezium" and so on.
Other changes can be made at this stage. For example, a flared skirt with a high waist will fit perfectly on any figure. Pattern of this style is also simple in execution. Here there are several options for cutting the high waist.This may be a wide belt that will look great on a product with a flare “sun” or a single cut lift, such as, for example, for a bell skirt or a trapeze.
And if everything is clear with the belt: you just need to make it about 10 cm high, then you will have to work with the full cut version. You will have to draw a lift on the film, taking into account the body circumference above the waist by 10-15 cm. The principle here is the same as in the design of the transition from the hips to the waist, only in mirror image.
Stage Four: Cutting and Assembly
When the flared skirt pattern is ready, you can proceed to cutting and subsequent assembly. There is also nothing complicated. The template is cut out along the contour, then the fabric is folded in half ("face" inside) and a blank is applied to the bend with the appropriate side. Then it is outlined along the contour and cut out, departing a couple of centimeters from the line, thus allowing for seam allowances.
Assembly should begin with the processing of side slices with overlock and zipper sewing. After closing the side seams, tuck. Next is the work with the belt, if any, and the bottom of the product is processed. After it remains to punch the loop and sew buttons, if any. If not, then you should do the inner facing at the top of the product and secure it on the wrong side.
That's it, the skirt is ready!