Making a self-leveling floor - step by step instructions

  • Sergey February 14, 2013 15:48

    Bulk floor is gaining increasing popularity. Thanks for the detailed description!

  • February 14, 2013 18:02

    I did not know that there are such mixtures. Even just from her, the floor became smooth and very beautiful. Every year there are more and more new tools for construction and repair.

  • Tamara February 14, 2013 18:58

    Vladislav, I thought they would dismantle the old floors, then level and fill. And if the floors squeak, then they will creak or fill can burst?

  • Catherine February 14, 2013 21:26

    At this beauty and add nothing you want.

  • February 14, 2013 21:40

    Elegant! I read it myself and wanted to make such a floor in my apartment!

  • Natalya Yarskaya February 15, 2013 0:04

    It really looks so simple! Thanks for the briefing. =)

  • February 15, 2013 14:36

    Useful article for those who make repairs. I recommend the whole site.

  • Lyudmila February 15, 2013 22:02

    Your article is just the way. My husband and I had just recently planned to make a new tile in the bathroom. Thank you for the excellent and understandable video.

  • Teymour February 15, 2013 22:04

    With the advent of modern polymer technology, the installation of self-leveling floors with their own hands is not very difficult. It is only necessary to carefully watch the video you submitted, and all questions will disappear on their own!

  • Svetlana February 16, 2013 23:38

    Is it possible to make self-leveling floors on the "warm floor".

  • February 18, 2013 14:25

    Excellent article, I certainly will not decide on such work, but your instruction is very useful for men “with hands”, my husband changed floors in his son’s room 2 years ago, after reading a similar article on the Internet, everything worked out for 5+

  • Natalia March 1, 2013 9:29

    What can I say: shine is there.

  • Alexander March 1, 2013 9:30

    The reflection of the windows is almost perfect.

  • Andrei March 19, 2013 13:20

    Good report, everything is clear, especially the video, but there were questions. 1) Is it necessary to prime (betonkontakt or others) a coupler made of Volma-rover-rough before the finishing layer of Volma-leveler? Screed cleaned the difference in the horizon up to 3 cm. 2) Do you need to pour the mixture into water or can you pour water into the mixture? Thank you.

  • Andrei March 19, 2013 20:21

    Thanks for the answer. In the shops of our town this primer is not found, apparently not in demand. And the official site is silent.Although most likely recommend a primer Volma-universal.

  • April 23, 2013 13:56

    Hello. You wrote that the floor was covered with paint. Did you delete it? If so, how?

  • April 25th, 2013 4:05 pm

    Hello. We purchased an apartment in a new building. where there is no screed. no plaster. You can apply self-leveling floors directly on the concrete, without pre-screed, followed by laying tiles and laminate. What brand of self-leveling floor is best suited for this.

  • May 30, 2013 22:36

    Hello! Very visual and useful information. If possible, please answer the following question. I have an apartment on the third floor of a panel house. If you use the floor, will it leak to the neighbors from the bottom? How to avoid it?

  • Anfisa June 5, 2013 17:15

    Read was very interesting.

  • Irina June 23, 2013 21:40

    Tell me please, water heating under these floors can be done?

  • Denis June 29, 2013 11:27

    Hello, is it possible to make a self-leveling floor in the garage? (the floor is simply poured with concrete, roughness of about 1-2cm)

  • Love July 2, 2013 9:56

    Hello, please tell me, bought an apartment in a new building, screed in some places in the cracks. Do I need to make a new screed under the self-leveling floor? Thank you in advance!

  • Sergei July 5, 2013 11:02

    Good afternoon. The question for you is: in the bathroom, waterproofing applied before or after the leveling floor? If after, then what is the best way to walk then for tiling? Thank you in advance for your response.

  • Elena Suslova July 6, 2013 10:22

    I in the new building did fill the floor on the screed, but it cracked. What to do? Smash? In some places there are cracks, but somewhere it creaks. And the dry mix was Volma-leveler. And it does not shine at all, matte. Lena

    • Ponomarev Vladislav July 8, 2013 8:55

      Elena, cracks are not terrible, but the fact that the floor creaks suggests that either the quality of the adhesion of the self-leveling floor and the screed is poor, or the quality of the fit of the screed itself to the bottom of the floor. As a result, the load displaces the layers and such a sound appears. All this could happen for three reasons: either the house is new and the shrinkage and formation still occurs, or after the arrangement of the screed did not stand 20 days for the cement, or did not produce a screed primer for high-quality bonding of the layers. As a result, the screed “tears” the self-leveling floor. Specifically, it is necessary to look already in place. And the fact that there is no shine, he glittered strongly only in a liquid state. After hardening, the floor became cream-colored and a bit dull and smooth, resembles a bit of plastic to the touch.

  • Alexey 8th July 2013 15:08

    Hello Vladislav! All of course you explain well, but I dare to disagree with you! Such a technology of pouring will not give an ideal plane, not a surface, but a plane on such an area, especially if the differences in the level will vary in centimeters! I think you tried to put a three-meter rule on the floor after such a fill?

    • Ponomarev Vladislav July 8, 2013 17:19

      Alexey, I did a clean self-leveling floor, because My goal was not to make the plane of the horizon in the apartment, but to eliminate the pits, potholes and loose pieces of the screed on the cracks under the linoleum flooring. Therefore, I poured the maximum layer thickness of 5 mm, and since the flatness of the floor I already had, then after pouring it, respectively, remained. With the rule I got the perfect floor. If the differences in the levels will vary in centimeters - you will not get clean flooring. First, you need to make a fill to eliminate such differences, create the plane itself, and the layer will accordingly be of a different thickness and the fill technology will be slightly different.

  • Larisa August 5th, 2013 12:54 pm

    Wow, we specially hired people for this (before laying the laminate), but it turns out that everything can be done on their own.

  • Novel August 8, 2013 13:08

    Good afternoon, please tell me, we encountered such a problem, in the new building we want to put laminate in the whole apartment the same, while the unevenness of the rooms is different, the floor is linoleum and visually visible and the irregularity of the floor is felt and tactile. The problem is that in the kitchen the difference from the corners to the center is about 2.5 cm, a kind of bowl is formed) in the hallway 0.5 cm. (At once, an idea arose to make a self-leveling floor, but at the same time that there were no differences between the rooms and not to pour or not to pour the kitchen (not pereperovyrovat) it is impossible to pour on linoleum it is not ideally flat it fits firstly and it doesn’t grab it secondly.The question is how to remove the linoleum stuck on tightly? I had a completely wild idea, pour solvent on it, let it dissolve for the night.ol in the kitchen to begin to fill in the middle and fill evenly distributed to the level of the corners !?

    • Ponomarev Vladislav August 8, 2013 14:05

      Roman, I think the idea with a solvent is not very good. Neighbors will not be happy for such a smell (to put it mildly).The best option is to remove it mechanically, because bulk floor on linoleum definitely can not be poured from above. Linoleum, of course, cannot be saved, the main thing is to make good preparation for pouring the floor. If there are large differences in the floor, and if it is planned to level the floor in the whole apartment, I would first put beacons throughout the apartment area. Immediately it would be clear where the thickness of the fill will be, and they would serve as landmarks for pouring. If the areas of the rooms are not huge, you will have enough time to fill the floor in the whole room before the mixture becomes; it will definitely give a flat horizontal surface over the entire area. Immediately move to the next room, etc. before leaving the apartment.

  • Vladimir August 8, 2013 16:51

    I need to pour a concrete pad in the yard at the weekend, because the concrete began to crumble. Height difference of centimeters to 10. Questions: 1. Is it possible to fill the area with pieces, so that the solution does not flow from the high surface into the lowlands? 2. How long does the primer dry? 3. I probably need to protect the perimeter of the site with a barrier, maybe cardboard or plywood. Then this cardboard will lag behind without any problems?

  • Alexander August 13, 2013 11:47 am

    Good afternoon! I need to fill the floor in the bath (a ramp from 3 sides at one point) will the self-leveling floor suit for this? Or are there other options besides a concrete sand mortar?

  • Vitali September 2, 2013 10:38

    Good afternoon, a specialist! Question to you, it is necessary to lay the film before pouring (for self-leveling floor) or optional ?? =))) Thanks for the answer in advance.

  • Natalia September 9, 2013 11:18

    Good afternoon! The room is made of self-leveling floor (manufacturer - Comp. Miners) under the laminate. For several reasons, laying laminate is postponed indefinitely. Can the bulk floor deteriorate in 3-4 weeks (crumble, crack, etc.) or not? Need to cover it with something? Thanks in advance for the answer.

  • Alexander September 27, 2013 19:56

    Tell me pliz! Leveling the floor Volma-level. But not calculated. As a result, I almost got the right level. Is it possible to reach the level by the second run, after what time can this be done after the first one is filled? Area 4 sq.m. Or need another solution?

  • Alexander September 29, 2013 11:28

    Good afternoon. I have a question. I'm going to make a self-leveling floor in the garage. Is it possible to add color to the self-leveling floor mixture? And another question.If I go to the garage in the winter on studded tires, the floor will deteriorate or you need to cover it with some additional durable layer. Thank you in advance.

  • Vladimir September 29, 2013 21:59

    Vladislav. I am going to do the self-leveling floor have some questions for you. 1) Is it possible to pour on clean concrete, or is it necessary to prime? If necessary, which primer is better? 2) After what time after pouring, it is possible on it, at least to walk, and then the room is passing? Thanks in advance for the answer.

  • Alexander September 30, 2013 19:29

    Good afternoon again! And what is the time of the final formation of the first layer (VOLMA-Level)? Already 3 days have passed. According to the description - Ability to load the floor after 72 hours. Now primed for 1 time Ceresit CT17. Can I pour a new layer after the primer has dried? Thank you in advance.

  • Diamond October 5, 2013 10:54

    My bulk mixture hardens very quickly and I cannot roll it out with a spiked roller. When I make the second batch and fill it, a gap is obtained at the interface.

  • Alexander October 8, 2013 10:28

    Hello! Can Volma Nevelir Expres be used to fill an electric floor heating.

  • Alexander October 24, 2013 20:14

    Hello Vladislav. In your article, you write that consumption at a thickness of 5-7 mm came out 4 kg per 1 square meter. The manufacturer also indicates 12.5 kg per 1 square meter at 10 mm, i.e. more. How much to take? According to your expenses, I need 4 bags per 20 square (5 mm thickness). And according to Volm's indicators - 6 bags. They will not take it back, but it is impossible to take a break in pouring.

  • October 24, 2013 23:21

    Hello! And how to make soundproofing with interfloor overlapping and filling floors: what is the thickness and what is better material?

  • Igor October 30, 2013 20:29

    Vladislav, what about the old man, very good. the old foundation where, under the creaky parquet, is no less creaky wooden shields pinned to the logs. When I rode this square about 30 years ago, I simply poured parquet with several layers of lacquer. For some time, 3-4 years, it helped but then the creaking slowly started again. Tell me please, can your method help in my case? Very good want to somehow solve this problem with “little blood” Regards, I. Korobov

  • Igor November 1, 2013 14:15

    Thank you, Vladislav! Well, you have to accumulate resources. Thanks again! p.s. And your site liked! I will study

  • Alexey November 1, 2013 20:25

    Good afternoon. Just concreted the floor in the production area.He concreted on a sandy pillow (he poured sand onto rammed earth and spilled sand). Concrete layer - 7 cm. Reinforced with steel wire mesh of 4 mm. The question is: do all self-leveling floors require the aging of a fresh concrete base from 20 days? Maybe there are some that can be poured over fresh concrete, say in 5 days? Or it is necessary to withstand it in principle for all types of self-leveling floors, I do not have enough time.

  • Tatyana November 14, 2013 15:16

    Vladislav, I have a few questions: 1) is the damper tape used around the perimeter of the room; 2) Do you need something similar along the borders of the rooms? What? Or is the floor poured all over the apartment? 3) if tiles and flooring are used in the same room, how to fill these zones at different heights correctly in order to bring the floor to level? 4) if cracks occur in the screed and the self-leveling floor can deep penetration primers solve this problem? If not, how to be? Thank you in advance!

  • Michael December 29, 2013 11:26

    Hello. There was a built-in wardrobe in the room. Dismantled. The base of the cabinet is 2 cm below the main floor with an area of ​​0.6 sq.m. A kind of hole is obtained.

  • Vadim January 11, 2014 16:37

    Hello! Grief-builders put a screed in which the warm water floor on the previous screed is crooked and askew with differences in irregularities of 1-1.5 cm. In addition, in this new screed (2 months later) there were cracks about 2-3 mm wide. How to eliminate cracks and how can the floor be leveled? Further, it is planned to sticker PVC tiles on it. Thank you!

  • Sairan February 16, 2014 2:41

    Hello. I will say this “teapot” in leveling floors, I want to make repairs in my room. There are several questions, 1. How do you set up lighthouses? laser level or water? 2. Do I need to make a dry screed before pouring the self-leveling floor? 3. Will the rough floor replace the dry screed? 4. How thick is the filler floor? Thanks in advance.

  • Eugene April 28, 2014 10:55

    Hello Vladislav! I need to level the floor in a room of 19 sq.m. Pre-made screed from sand-concrete mix M-300. Since the slope of the floor slab only to one side (to the wall of the next room, where the output to the hallway), it was necessary to lay the mortar from one wall 30 mm thick, gradually reducing the thickness to the opposite wall, almost to zero. Not exactly zero,and as far as the gravel fractions in the sand-cement mixture allowed. As a result, cavities appeared in this “zero” zone, not covered with cement mortar with a depth of about 5 mm. Question: Is it necessary to level these small dimples with cement mortar before starting to fill with self-leveling floors? I am going to buy a thin self-leveling floor “The Miners” (1-20 mm) or “Horizon-2” (1-10 mm). By the way, you do not know which is better? PS Is it necessary to buy a damper tape in my case? Thanks in advance for the answer!

  • Maria May 4, 2014 13:24

    Somehow we poured on top of the floor! It was something! And such a bay does not pass under the bay, not under that, and the neighbors from above got away with it, and I have nothing left from the new kitchen (And then I was doing a repair on the floor above and also poured our office from below. In my opinion this option is only for the first floors, and I still have a question for Vladislav.I dream of an even field. I have boards under the linoleum, and boards on the logs, under the logs, there are still 20 stones and construction debris. Well, they built this in the 60s (I need to clean all this before pouring the floor, or can I prime the boards and make the floor? On the floor I want put a tile.

  • Catherine July 13, 2014 20:08

    Hello! Is it possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden surface? and where to start? Tell me)

  • Anton July 22, 2014 5:51

    Hello, Thanks for the helpful information. I only have a question. If I need to put a laminate, is it enough for me to make a rough self-leveling floor or finish too?

  • Kvetika October 12, 2014 20:11

    Good afternoon! Better still make a finish, regardless of the type of flooring. You still need a good, high-quality floor, which does not begin to fail in the process of operation.

  • Oleg Klyshko October 13, 2014 9:53

    If the base is not level, the self-leveling floor will not level, but will accept the base relief.

  • Andrei October 13, 2014 20:04

    Not exact compliance with the entire filling technology or very, very "curved" hands. At observance of technology everything is leveled and hides roughnesses.

  • Hope December 7, 2014 20:58

    Hello! In the video, a mixture of self-leveling floor "Volma". If I also make a glossy reflective surface on the floor with the same mixture, or does it shine until it dries, but dries and there is no shine? I really want such a bathroom floor, the area is small. If this mixture is not suitable can advise something.

  • Vladimir December 14, 2014 17:14

    Why according to the instructions on the floor can be walked in 8 hours, and the laminate can be laid only after 21 days? What happens if you lay the laminate before the deadline.

  • December 15, 2014 9:52

    Hello, I have a house built by the Soviet Union, there is a small tile in the bathroom, of course the whole curve. If I give it away, can I fill it with a floor, or do I need to make a screed? Swings will be in 1 may 2 centimeters. Thanks in advance.

  • Andrei December 17, 2014 9:08

    With a little experience in pouring floors in the apartment. Hope, after drying the gloss will disappear. There will be a smooth creamy-white slightly glossy surface. Vladimir. The manufacturer recommends the maximum time required for complete evaporation of moisture from the filling floor. In each case depends on the temperature, humidity of the air in the room. If you lay the laminate earlier, then condensate and, subsequently, fungus will collect under the substrate. I laid the linoleum in a few days, checking when the moisture disappeared under a small piece of linoleum. Oleg.General recommendations: deep and wide cracks should be covered with a cement or plaster mortar so that the floor does not leave the floor where it is not known where (if the cracks are not through, you can fill it with a rough (dark) rover,as in the case for reducing the consumption of “finishing” (white) self-leveling floor and reducing costs). 2. Surface should be treated with concrete-contact (for better adhesion and to avoid leakage through small cracks). 3. Do not forget to mark the desired fill level. Good luck to all.

  • January 5, 2015 9:55

    Grief-builders poured the floor VOLMA-SLOY. Will there be a solid base under the laminate?

  • Irina January 22, 2015 1:35

    67 sq. M. How much time can you make a jellied floor in a new building? What time will it take to work?

  • NIKOLAI January 27, 2015 23:26

    the work of the deletant who took the roller for the first time, nor the damper tape (by the way is necessary), huge errors on the horizon are not shot out, I have been working in finishing 8 years already for such floors have already been kicked out, about the proportions of garbage full, 6 liters per bag but not when such a solution as on video, learn to work Vladislav, do not hang noodles on the ears of the townsfolk.

  • February 27, 2015 22:58

    Can you please tell me what proportion of liters to the amount of the mixture should be? Thank you.

  • Elena April 6, 2015 17:07

    Thank you very much for an accessible video for understanding, and then we with the child have spent time flooding, then thickly, then liquid, though another mixture.And now I’ll buy VOLMA and, I hope, thanks to your advice, we will also have such a beautiful floor. And if I don’t immediately fill the entire premises, but gradually, with a break of several days?

  • Alexey June 21, 2015 18:36

    He laid a rough leveler on the floor. After what time it is possible to pour polymeric rovnitel floor?

  • Boris October 7, 2015 15:15

    after how much can you fill the second layer of volma level express ???

  • Alexander 3 November 2015 10:18

    If there is 0 in one corner and 5 cm in the other.

  • The Proletarian November 8, 2017 8:08

    Yeah, it is.

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